Hidden Gems
Dan and I decided to skip our end of August plans and shoot straight for Alaska but being the climbers that we are, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to climb the Bugaboos in British Columbia. The Bugaboos are a world class climbing destination guarded by a multi-hour drive and a strenuous 3.6 mile hike with a crazy elevation gain. When you arrive in the parking lot after an hour long, 35 mile stretch of dirt road, you must wrap the bottom of your car in chicken wire otherwise the porcupines will mutilate any exposed rubber. The hike alone is worth the cost of admission (long drive) and is definitely on the top 3 list of my life. When I think of exploring the mountains, the Bugaboos are what I think of. Gigantic glaciers guard all the peaks; waterfalls run the whole length of peaks. For $10 Canadian, you can camp at Applebee Dome which is the most scenic campground I have ever stayed at and the perfect jumping off point to all the climbing.
Bertha Explosion
Emerging from the forest
Dan leading first pitch of McTech Arete
Yours truly on the 5th pitch of McTech Arete
View on McTech Arete
Vowell Glacier
Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire
Contemplating the weather
The weather that needed contemplating
We spent 3 days in the Bugs but I could spend multiple seasons there. This is serious alpine climbing where glacial navigation and an understanding of the weather is a must. We purchased ice axes and crampons and hit it head first. We ended up only conquering one route: Mctech Arête which is a 6 pitch 5.10 classic. We originally had our eye set on the Beckey-Chouinard (15 pitch 5.10) but it quickly became apparent that we were biting off more than we could chew. We shifted our focus to the Northeast Ridge of the Bugaboo spire, a 13 pitch 5.7, but Mother Nature would prevent us from even giving it a shot. At the end of the day, I have a new found respect for the planet we live on and I am grateful that I had the opportunity to experience a place as beautiful as the Bugaboos.
We are currently in Edmonton and are now focused on getting to Anchorage. The only thing stopping us is about 2000 miles…see you there!