Self-Rescue Primer

Books to read:

  • “Self-Rescue” by David Fasulo

  • “The Mountain Guide Manual” by Marc Chauvin and Rob Coppolillo*

*This is advanced literature and not necessarily required reading but a really good resource

Before you go:

  • Honest assessment of team’s climbing and technical skills and severity of climb.

  • Contingency plans

  • Stay out of a “rescue situation” in the first place

-Don’t attempt climbs above ability level

-Commitment grades and severity grades (pg-13, R, X)

-Give yourself enough time so you are not rushing and have extra snacks and water

-Weather (weatherbug app)

  • Cell service in the area? Call 911 for life, limb, eyesight

  • GPS device?

  • Less serious, try to initiate self rescue

  • Take a wilderness medicine course

Knots and Hitches to know:

Clove Hitch: https://www.animatedknots.com/clove-hitch-knot-half-hitches

Munter Mule Hitch: https://www.animatedknots.com/munter-mule-combination-hitch-knot

Over Hand on a bight: https://www.animatedknots.com/flat-overhand-bend-knot (this but one strand of rope instead of 2)

Klemheist: https://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist-knot

Standard Prussik: https://www.animatedknots.com/prusik-knot

Friction Hitches: https://youtu.be/wjRy_iBRUyk

Skills:

3:1 Raise: https://youtu.be/ocOcujRmZ9I

Lowering from a plate:

Improvised ascending: https://youtu.be/WcUmdGIf21o

Descending:

Knot Pass: https://youtu.be/I2pGaEW-ykM

Load Transfer Drill: https://youtu.be/rEcv37iPsfA