Leave no trace Principle

1. PLAN AHEAD AND PREPARE

Thoughtful preparation leads to safer climbs, fewer accidents, and less impact on the land.

This principle is about more than just packing the right gear — it's about respecting the environment, other users, and your own experience by showing up informed and intentional. In climbing, poor planning often leads to damaged terrain, unsafe situations, or unintentional Leave No Trace violations.

Here’s how good planning shows up at the crag:

ROUTE & AREA RESEARCH

• Know the approach: Are there established trails? Is the terrain sensitive (e.g., cryptobiotic soil, alpine vegetation)?
  → Example: In places like Moab or Red Rock, cutting across crypto or braiding trails destroys fragile ecosystems. Knowing the proper approach avoids this.

• Know the route’s condition and popularity:
  → Example: Heading to a well-trafficked multipitch route? Have a Plan B in case there's a long wait. Hovering at the base for an hour tramples soil and causes crowding.

• Understand seasonal closures: Many climbing areas restrict access to protect nesting raptors or during fire season.
  → Example: In places like Yosemite or Smith Rock, areas can be closed from February to July. Always check with local land managers.

PACKING THE RIGHT GEAR — FOR YOU AND THE ENVIRONMENT

• Trash management: Bring a small ziplock or trash bag for wrappers, tape, and micro-trash.
  → Nuance: Tape and fruit peels left at the base of boulders often get missed because they “don’t seem like trash.” They are.

• Poop kit or wag bag: Especially in backcountry zones or areas without bathrooms.
  → Example: On long alpine or desert days, you may be miles from a toilet. A wag bag can prevent a high-use zone from becoming a human waste minefield.

• First aid, maps, weather forecast: Be self-sufficient.
  → Nuance: Needing a rescue because of inadequate preparation creates risk for responders and often results in environmental damage during extraction.

LOGISTICS & GROUP SIZE

• Climb in smaller groups: Large parties cause more wear on trails, staging areas, and belay ledges.
  → Example: A group of 6 at a single boulder or sport wall takes up space, creates congestion, and unintentionally encourages trail expansion.

• Carpool when possible: Reduces pressure on limited trailhead parking and lessens your carbon footprint.
  → Nuance: Overflow parking often damages roadside vegetation or leads to enforcement issues that can threaten climbing access.

KNOW LOCAL ETHICS & ETIQUETTE

• Some areas have unique access agreements or local rules.
  → Example: In Rifle, climbers are asked to keep noise low due to proximity to private property. In some areas, brushing off tick marks is considered part of good form.

• Understand bolt etiquette and rebolting efforts.
  → Nuance: Don't chip, add, or alter bolts, especially in wilderness or historical areas. Know the ethics around fixed gear.

PLAN FOR THE UNEXPECTED

• Bad weather, route bottlenecks, or gear issues can all increase your impact if you’re unprepared.
  → Example: Getting benighted on a multipitch climb without a headlamp can result in emergency bivies that trample vegetation or disturb wildlife.

why it matters

Failing to plan leads to high-impact choices.
Whether you’re bouldering for an hour or setting off on a 12-hour alpine link-up, Principle 1 asks that you think ahead — not just for your own safety, but for the sake of the environment, the landowners, and other climbers.

Good climbing starts with good planning. It’s one of the most effective (and easiest) ways to Leave No Trace.